Momofuku

Starred review from August 17, 2009
Chang, master restaurateur and chef, and Meehan, a New York Times
food writer, join forces in this stellar collection of recipes from Chang's restaurants—Momofuku, Ssäm Bar and Ko. Chang is a man possessed with a deep love of ramen and a clear passion for food. This book pays tribute to the humble noodle, which Chang has elevated to a near art form, and the wide array of cuisine he serves. Filled with 150 gorgeous, full-color photos and an engrossing narrative, this book is a treat for the eye, mind and palate. Chang's special touches are seen in every dish. Chicken wings are cooked with bacon in rendered pork or duck fat, and pan-roasted asparagus are adorned with poached eggs and miso butter. Fried (or roasted) cauliflower is drizzled with fish sauce vinaigrette, and roasted New Jersey diver scallops are served with kohlrabi puree and iwa nori. Of course, recipes for noodles abound, including Momofuku ramen, ginger scallion noodles, and Alkaline Noodles. Other staples include ramen broth, ramen toppings, and rice with miso soup. Be forewarned: Chang gears the cookbook to only the most experienced of cooks, with many dishes requiring several steps. Nevertheless, Chang presents a collection both stunning and engaging.

September 15, 2009
In his first cookbook, coauthored with food writer Meehan, culinary star Chang uses recipes and essays to trace the evolution of his Momofuku restaurant group from one struggling ramen shop to four New York City restaurants (Momofuku Noodle Bar, Milk Bar, Ssm Bar, and Ko) lauded by the James Beard Foundation, the Michelin Guide, and numerous food publications. The first restaurant, which initially emulated ramen and noodle shops Chang had visited while teaching English in Japan, seemed likely to fail until he abandoned his original concept for a more personal approach that blended traditional preparations with unconventional or seasonal ingredients. The distinctive recipes here reflect Chang's growth as a chef and his passion for noodles and pork products. Consequently, it is not vegetarian friendly. While many recipes are technically accessible, some readers may find them too complicated or time-consuming for everyday usesome seemingly simple dishes require cooks to preassemble multiple components. VERDICT Fans of Chang's restaurants will be happy to see recipes for signature dishes like ramen, pork buns, and bo ssm (a ten-pound pork butt). Expect demand from foodies and readers interested in celebrity chefs or restaurateurs.Lisa Campbell, Univ. of Pittsburgh Lib. Syst.

Copyright 2009 Library Journal, LLC Used with permission.